Las callejuelas de Granada suponen un viaje en el tiempo a épocas pasadas. Epocas de los Reyes Católicos que hacían y deshacían, o bien de los reinos nazaríes que superaron su batalla contra los siglos y siguen ganando la partida en cada zoco granadino, cada acequia y cada caligrafía que esculpe su piedra.
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In 2022, we will be closed for holidays the 1st and 6th January, 14th, 15th and 16th April, 2nd and 16th May, 25th July, 12th October, 16th August, 1st and 9th November, 6th, 8th , 9th and 26th December.
Our shop is located in Calle Campomanes nº 4, Madrid 28013 España (Ópera Metro Station)
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3 walks through the city
Index
Through the center
The walk through the center of Granada can begin on the Nueva square, that will be also the beginning of the third walk. The square is very populated above all during the summer thanks to the good weather and the terraces, it is dominated by the volumes of the Royal Chancellory, building that is hosting today the Superior Court of Justice of Andalusia and that was originally a court. Tht's howwe conceived during the era of the Catholic Kings and this is with this aim that we have finished its buidling during the XVI. Century, under the reign of Carlos V. A very Renaissance characteristic style, you have to walk through the patio, the stairs and what we call the cave of the executioner.
A small dead end on the right of the main front that is leading us to the Pisa house, a buiding with a mudejar style, the house of the family until the XIX. Century and where died Saint Juan de Dios, patron saint of the city and the medical profession.
On the posterior part of this building and the Royal Chancellery we see a lot of small streets all around the Caldereria Vieja and Caldereria Nueva, a fantastic place, above all during the day or after dinner, where you can have tea or smoke the chichah and offering dozens of tea places. We can also buy some handcraft inherited from the nasride tradition, like small boxes, some frames or small furniture.
Once we are back on the Nueva square, through the Catholic Kings avenue, we arrive quickly at the crossroads with Gran Via of Colon. This street, one of the main streets of the city, is filled up with brand shops and some of the best hotels of Granada. Here we will find the highest concentration of monuments of Granada (except the Alhambra). First of all, the palace of Madraza, old Koranic school, today converted in an exhibition room of the University. In front of the palace a maze of small streets with a lot of shops. This is Alcaiceira and Zacatin. If you have already travelled all around a souk in any Muslim country you will remember very quickly. Even if we have to be honest we can find some uncertain quality souvenirs from Granada.
After shopping, the squares of Alonso Cano and the Pasiegas enable to access to the cathedral of the Anunciacion and to the old royal chapel. The main building of the first one has been designed by Alonso Cano (XVII. Century) with three triumphal arches and with impressive naves, five, that Diego de Siloé has transformed in Renaissance style, the Gothic project of Enrique Egas. That's how the pillars of the cathedral support the vaults located 60 meters high and empowered by a great brightness thanks to the heights and to the rich windows and to the predominant colours in the interior, white and golden. In the main chapel, the golden tones are prevailing. This huge area is illuminated by flamenco stained glass windows, achieved during the XVI. Century. We recommend the chapel dedicated to Santiago and the chapel of the Angustias.
We can reach the royal chapel from the interior of the cathedral, through a beautiful ironwork. The tomb of the Catholic Kings is accompanied by the tomb of their daughter Juana and Felipe el Hermoso. The project is by Enrique Egas, the one who started to build the cathedral, and the tomb of Isabel and Fernando has been ordered to the Tuscan sculptor Domenico Fancelli. Regarding the one of Juana and Felipe, it's the work of Bartolomé Ordoñez. It's through a small staircase that we can reach the crypt where we have left the chest with the rests of the Catholic Kings and the prince Miguel, their eldest son.
We can also reach the old sacristy from the royal chapel, place hosting today the treasure and the museum of the cathedral and where we keep all the power symbols of the king Fernando.
Once we are out of the cathedral, at the end of the Alcaiceria we find the most living square of the center of Granada, the Bib Rambla. During the day the flowers stalls fill up this square with their colours and aromas. During the Muslim time the square was already a centre of festive activities. And the cardinal Cisneros made it sadly famous because we burnt ther a good part of the bibliographical nasride collection.
The surrounding streets are full of gastronomic suggestions and it is a good option for shopping. If we like shopping we can easily reach the Mesones street and if we continue, on the right, we reach the square of the University, where we can see the front of the Saints Justo and Pastor collegiate. This church is mixing different styles: Renaissance and Baroque. Its huge altar and its dome are impressive.
Nearby, at the end of San Jeronimo street, we can find the basilica of San Juan de Dios. The basilica is forming a part of the hospital complex, here we can find Baroc shapes. It's logical if we remember that the building begun during the XVIII. Century under the order of the Alonso de Jesus y Ortega brother, Inquisitor and art lover. Even if a lot of his wealth suffered despoliation by the Napoleon army. The Law College is sharing space with an interesting botanical garden where are growing more than 40 species, this is the green lung of the area.
On the left of the square, through the Gran Capitan, we can find the San Jeronimo monastery, that we can visit partly as a part of the building is occupied by a religious order. When we visit it we cannot deny the influence of both main architects of the Christian Granada: Enrique Egas and Diego de Siloe. The first one left his mark, for example in the vaults; and the second one has influenced a large part of the nave and the main altar.
We can come back to the center through the Duquesa and the Trinidad square. From here we leave the Mesones street and Alhóndiga is ideal for shopping. The Alhondiga comes out onto the Recogidas street and this one onto the Catholic Kings avenue. We can admire the front of the Corral del Carbon. The building was a wheat hall during the XIV. Century, there the retailers could be hosted, and stock their goods and realise their transactions. After that this place has been converted in a comedy courtyard, and then in neighbouring house used to stock coal in the basement, and today it is the headquarter of the Foundation "Legado Andalusi", promoting the recovery of the artistic and cultural patrimony left by Al-Andalus all along the eight centuries of history, and in its patio we offer different cultural and institutional acts but hosting also a few shops.
If we continue along the Catholic Kings, at the crossraods with Gran Via de Colon, we find a small square, the Isabel la Catolica square, we find there a building showing the queen with Christopher Columbus during the Capitulations of Santa Fe. The building, builded in 1892 is the work of Mariano Benlliure.
From this square and through the Pavaneras street we arrive to the next to last step of this walk: the house of the Tiros. BUilded during the XVI. Century, property of the Granada-Venegas family. The Catholic Kings have give the Generalife to this family for their participation in the conquest of Granada. The front of the residence hides a rich interior, we recommend the Golden Room.
From here we can go to the Navas street, and let oneself seduce by the gastronomy of Granada.
The Alhambra and the Generalife
Before beginning this walk we have to know that we cannot see everything without a previous booking, because we are restricting the entry to the public to the most prestigious area of the city, to the nasride palaces, since a few years.We suggest to book the visit for the end of the morning or the end of the day, and during the rest of the time you can visit the rest of the Alhambra. From the access pavillon, in front and on the right, you can find the gardens of the Generalife. Planted with trees, irrigation's canals and fountains taking us to the summer palace of the nasrid kings, builded between the XII. and XIV. century. You have to know that a good part of the gardens were then groves and pastures providing the palace. Today the Cypress walk is taking us to the Low Gardens, on the back of the theater, free-range. From here a checkerboard of vegetable streets taking us to the south wing of the palace, in line with the concept of romantic garden. Before to get in the pavilion it's suitable to be attentive to the sobriety of the façades, contrasting with the decorative sumptuousness, in line with the Muslim architecture.
Among all the palace areas we attract attention on the Acequia patio, dominated by the north pavilion, the Regia room and its plaster works and the mozarabe decoration of the big top, a style that we can appreciate in all the nasrid palaces. The stairs of water are beautiful, taking us up to the highest point of the Generalife and surrounded by tides of the sultan's canals, from the Renaissance period.
Through the High Gardens of the Generalife, and after crossing the bridge we can reach the Alhambra's part surrounded with great walls. The first important building on the right is the San Franscisco convent, erected at the end of the XV. century, decided by the Catholic Kings, on an old nasrid palace and today converted ub a Parador. From here we have fantastic views of the Generalife.
Back on the Real street, we arrive to the Santa Maria de la Alhambra church, more interesting for its outside than for its inside and erected on an old mosque from the XVI. and XVII centurym according to the drawing of Juan de Herrera.On the back of this church we find the Polinario Bath helping us to understand the core of the public bath in the Muslim word. Lower there is a set of geometric gardens, guesting by a huge ornamental lake, on what was before the palace of Yusuf III. Felipe V ordered then its destruction.
These gardens are sharing a space with the ones of the other palace, the Partal. These gardens are the most beautiful of the surroundings, even if the design do not date of the nasrid period but from the thirties, like the New Gardens of the Generalife.
The back street is separating the main façade of the church of Santa Maria of the Alhambra woth the posterior façade of the Carlo V palace. To build it we have destroyed a good part of the nasrid palaces. The project is of Pedro Machuca, who wanted to answer to the model of the Roman palace, around a huge circular patio. Carlos V never saw the end of the works.
In front of the main façade of the palace we find the kasbah, authentic area in the palace-city, where we hosted the military garrison. We reach the place through the Tribute tower, and among the remaining buildings we point out the Vela tower, often celebrated in poems and in songs, and also called the "all Granada". Going out the kasbah through the Gallinas tower, we arrive to the entrance of the nasrid palaces. The first of the palace is the one of Mexuar, the oldest, and used as the headquarter of the Council of Ministers and place where the sultan made reign the justice. Very near the main room we find the Oratory, surrounded by large windows in order to raise the spirituality of the religious believer through which we reach first the patios of the compound, shared with one of the wings of the Comares palace. The façade is the highest point of the nasrid point, with an abundant decoration. Through one of the doors we can reach the Comares patio, one of the most known pictures of the Alhambra. This open space was the hall for the private life of the royal nasrid family.
The patio is chaired by the impressive volume of the Comares tower, 45 meters high and the highest building of the ALhambra, the interior is hosting, the Ambassadors lounge. Clearly conceived to impress the foreigners arriving here, richly decorated with golden ceramics, with wooden ceilings, plaster filigrees originally polychrome, Venetian blinds in the windowa, also plaster filigrees... In the lounge we can reach nine other rooms; the most important, the private room of the sultan, and other spaces not less spectacular, such as the Comares Bath, or the Mocarabes room, even if the most important part have been destroyed by the explosion of a time bomb during the XVI century.
That's how we arrive to the most beautiful palace of the Alhambra: the one of the Leones (Lions). In the middle we find the foutain, supported by 12 lions sprinkling four narrow canals going all over the marble ground of the patio. This area of the nasrid palace has been ordered by Muhammad V between 1362 and 1391, during his second term of office, and suppose a summary of all nasrid styles. The beauty and harmony of the patio are given by the arked part surrounding it, looking like a Christian cloister more than a Muslim patio. The arches are supported by 124 columns of white marble, and finished iwth very fine shafts, and the roof of the gallery is a beautiful wooden ceiling.
On the patio we have two main rooms: the room of the Abencerrajes and the room of the Kings. The second one was dedicated to the rest, to talkings and to shows. Its main particularity is its vaults, decorated with figurative motives. Regarding the Abencerrajes room, it is remarkable for its high dome, decorated with mocarabes imitating the nature, such as if it was stalactites. This is also from the Lions patio that we can reach the Aljimeces room, the room of teh Two Sisters or the Daraza watchtower, for example.
Next step of our visit, maybe the less spectacuclar, but not the less important under an historical point of view, is to visit the rooms of the Emperor Carlos V, additional suites to the nasride palaces. around 1532, in line with the project of Pedro Machuca.
This last palace will be the end of our walk through the Alhambra. For those who aren't too tired we recommend a return to the center, through the Granada Door, throug the CUesta de Gomez, you will have the opportunity to visit a lot of traditional workshops and a few antique dealers, a very pleasant walk in the heart of the nasrid capital.
By Grenada Hills
The Albaicin is from the present Grenada that, before being christian and muslim, was roman and iberian. The walk by this special area drains away by winding and cobblestoned coast, and flanked by white houses, that open on small gardens, almost secret. Like the neighbour, Sacromonte, it is a area with a saoul and a muslim look, with an integration vocation and a cosmopolitan future that bewitches each visitor. It was th case for isnstance, for two american who live in this city some time: Washington Irwing and Bill Clinton. But also Manuel de Falla, Isaac Albeñiz and other artists and intellectual have been fascinated by its beauty and authenticity.
This walk starts by the Plaza Nueva, in front of the building of the royal chancery. If we leave this building on our left we enter in the Darro route, parallel to the river, tributary to the Genil. Before, we can visit Santa Ana Church, of the XVIth century and mudejar style, a work that the architect of Grenada Cathedral, Diego de Siloé, let for the posterity. If we let this temple on our right, we arrive at the Cabrera bridge that, for one side, leads us to the Alhambra hill and, for another side, until the Alabacin heart, and before the convent of Santa Ines, founded in the XVIth century.
The bridge and its surrounding are one of the most famous images of Grenada. In the bloc after, there is the Bañuelo, one of the vapour bath the best kept of Spain and a good example of the civil muslim architecture, that was built in XI century. During this visit, it is easy to recall the relax moments around water, especially in the central room, a good idea: going over the atmosphere of the hammams, in the vapour baths of the Santa Ana Street, parallel to the Darro; www.grenada.hammamspain.com.
In front of the Bañuelo, there are the remains of the the Cadi bridge, of the XI century, that use to be used as a gate to regulate the Darro waters. Without loosing the ria, we arrive quickly to the Castril house. Nowadays, provincial archaeological museum and Diego de Siloe work, dating from the XVI century. The house has a nice front and an impressive front steps covered by a roof of wood. The walk opens on the walk of the "Sad". The reason of this name is that in the past, cortèges were passing there until the cemetery that was behind the Alhambra.
Even if it is easy to imagine the sadness in the eyes of Andalusian people, for the last time, the beauty of the nasrides palaces. Because this is the big attraction of this place: the Alhambra view. In fact, sitting down on these terraces supposes a real luxury for all senses. After a contemplative rest, we go on until the end of the walk. On the left of the Chapiz coast and the entrance of the Cordova palace, rebuilt in the XIX century following the plans of the original building of the XVI century that was on a small place of the "Descalzas". It accommodates the local archives and generally welcomes the celebration of different institutional acts. But if there is something that comes out, it is the beauty of its gardens and marvellous views o the Alhambra. Arriving in the middle of the coast, we find the Chapiz's house that is not one but two buildings of mudéjar style erected on a muslim palace.
Nowadays, it is the headquarters of the Arab studies school and between the rooms, we note the patio of the mean house with the pond and the galleries decorated with islamic pattern. It is precisely here that starts the coast that shows the Sacromonte. The area, more Muslim than gypsy, and nowadays publicity more than residential zone, but it keeps its charm, especially if we have the possibility to visit its caves, some of them redeployed in particular museums, like the one of the Faraona, the one of the Rocio, the one of Manolo Amaya or of Pitirili. Even in the Barranco de los Negros street, there is an official ethnographic museum, The museum Cuevas del Sacromonte, that allows to understand how we use to live in this aerea. The hill is surrounded of the Sacromonte abbey, of the XVII century. Before its building, happened something curious because we found small boards of bronze that revealed a muslim origin of the christina apostolate. A very important discovery because the find happened during a controversial time. But we demonstrated later on their inaccuracy and it was a vain attempt of some Moors to avoid their deportation from Spain. You have to the Chapiz to go on the walk by the Albaicin. At the end of the coast, we guess the shape of Salvador church another work of Diego de Siloe, even if there is few rests of this temple, destructed because of a fire during the Moorish revolts in the XVI century and rebuilt in the XVIII century. From here, and after passing by Aljive Polo place and the narrow Panaderos street, we arrive to Larga place, social centre of Albaicin, lined by traditional shops and pleasant terraces. The centre of the city is here, it is from here that leave all the streets. One of them, Agua Street, reflects the typical moorish atmosphere, thanks to the antique houses, still up. Next to Larga place we can also find the Nueva Door (or Pesas Door) that, paradoxically, is one of the oldest that is opened on the great wall. If we call it like this it is because it is the last one that has been descovered by christian troops, because they were bricked up. It the section the best kept of Ziri great wall in spite of she has the name of the founding dynasty of Grenada, includes iberian and roman paintings. To get a nice panoramic view of the great walls we can go to San Cristobal watchtower. Few centuries later, it will be the residence of Fatima, after being moved away from the court by his husband, Muley Hacen. The most beautiful of this palace, is the meticulous decoration, pattern repeated in other nasrides works. A part of the building has been destructed under the order of the Catholic queen to build a convent, the Santa Isabel la Real convent, where are mixed up the gothic, mudejar and renaissance styles, and that is marvellous because of the quality of its wooden ceillings. Almost annexed to the convent, we can visit on of the most authentic hotel of Grenada, Santa Isabel la Real hotel, with 11 rooms organized around an Andalusian patio and with a nice view to the Alabacin.
From here, following the street of the same name, we go on until the crossing with Maria de la Miel, on the left. The second street, on the right, leads us until San Nicolas place, dominated by the church and the homonymou watchtower where we can see the most famous view of the street, with the Alhambra as super star. We can also finish the walk in another way: from outside of ziri great wall, following the Alhacaba coast until the Triunfo place and Elvira street. The door is on this place, it was the most important of all the doors that get to the city post muslim, because the kings use to pass there. After, following San Ildefonso pavement, we go towards the Royal Hospital, of the XVI century, made by Enrique Egas.
A sober and functional building that responds very well to its function of sanitary institution.
Nowadays it is the headquarters of the central services of the university of Grenada. We complete the walk with a visit of Cartuja monastery.
A so long walk has its reward: one of the religious monuments the most spectacular of the city. Even if the original, built in the XVI century on the Gonzalo Fernandez of Cordoba's initiative (the big captain), there is just some palces left: the church, with a spectacular altar, or the sacristy, full of art works and made in baroque style. The Cartuja is, the best of this walk in one of the nicest city of Spain, full of art works for the travellers.